ThEr Thiruvizha
My visit to Kanchi to volunteer at the Thiruvekka Temple
Prakaaram this month, opened up a fresh perspective and panoramic view of a
beautiful tradition I had never been part of before. The kainkaryam itself was
a treat as we engaged ourselves in clearing the overgrowth, to the
accompaniment of Thirupaavai recital that crisp February morning.
Thiruvekka Yadhodhkaari Temple finds mention in the ancient
Sangam literature Paththu Paattu - PerumbaaNaatruppadai. Nearly two thousand
years ago the temple had been surrounded by woods so dense with chirpy birds
that sunrays could not filter in.*
திருவெஃகாவின் சிறப்பும்
திருமால் வழிபாடும்
*நீடு குலைக்காந்தள் அம் சிலம்பில் களிறு படிந்தாங்கு,பாம்பணைப் பள்ளி அமர்ந்தோன் ஆங்கண்,
வெயில் நுழைபு அறியா, குயில் நுழை பொதும்பர்,
குறுங் கால் காஞ்சி சுற்றிய நெடுங் கொடிப் 375
The woods have not survived today, with crowded roads and traffic bustling all around, but the temple has survived due the sacrifices and efforts of our ancestors. With many volunteers working, the task for the day was accomplished quite fast. I was invited by friends to visit the village of Kooram where the urchavam celebrations were on, with the temple chariot is being drawn. I politely declined as I refrain from visiting temples during celebrations and prefer more private tete-a-tete with my Gods. I was assured that the village is a very tiny one.
So off we went in an open vehicle feeling the midday sun and the strong breeze on us. After our struggles with the traffic in Kanchi, it was a relief cruising along a road that opened out to green fields and trees.
The ThEr of Kooram was no juggernaut but still a good sized Chariot. As we alighted, we could see the decorated ThEr being drawn by numerous people. Koorathaazhvaan adorned in all finery was being taken in a procession with a couple of little boys seated at the rear playing the small murasu drums. The priests were seated in the front to offer pooja and at the sides to offer thirtham and chadari for the devotees.
I had only heard the saying, OOr koodithaan ThEra izhuthaaganum but now experienced it for the first time. The ThEr vadam was a thick long rope – thaamba kayir, held by the devotees on both sides - the old, the youth, the very young, men and women of all strata. Many people had ‘City’ written on them; to some of them Kooram must have been an ancestral village and for others it must have been the desire to be part of the festival. The ThEr stopped every ten feet at the entrances of the homes with the householders assembling with vethalai, paakku, vaazhapazham and thEngai. The opportunity to hold the ThEr vadam soon crops up as people leave to make arrangements to welcome the ThEr at their homes or to seek theertham and chadari. I was soon part of the entourage holding the rope nearly at the end. A master of ceremonies held aloft a green flag, a signal for all us to pull. All of us pulled with all our might. I could hardly feel any movement for perhaps about 10 seconds, and then the wheels started moving at a speed I could not gauge, but it was quite fast. There was some commotion as we could not keep our pace measured. It was exhilarating but by then, we heard a few shouts to halt as it was time for the next stop. As poojas were being performed, I stopped to catch my breath and soak in the surroundings. People stopped to touch the ThEr vadam to their eyes, little children holding the hands of the parents and grandparents emulated them. It was heartwarming to witness the Indian cultural thought of ascribing sanctity to even the inanimate, while it is associated with the divine, in action.
With every stop we got treated with sweets and water for energy. A person came about with a huge vessel of koththukadalai sundal distributing it in fistfuls with people receiving it in their bare hands and popping them into their month in one go. The city slicker in me thought about the hygiene of receiving it in my hand momentarily taken off the rope; but soon dismissed the thought. When you are in Rome be a Roman! And in any case, strict rules of cleanliness are religiously followed when it comes to temple ceremonies. Munching on the sundal I got ready for the next heave. By then I had move further up closer to the ThEr and was prepared for the few seconds gap for the potential energy to manifest into kinetic energy!! The chariot is brought to a halt with a plank of wood appropriately shaped to be inserted under the wheel. But while the wheel is moving fast, it jumps on the plank to spin a little more but comes to a stop with a few more attempts.
Human emotions are always interesting to watch. One mother was cajoling a youth, “ Why can’t we offer the pooja a mere 10 feet from our gate with all the effort it takes to bring it to a halt? “ The son was quite unyielding. “If it can stop for so many it should stop for me too!!”
One householder had a sack full of coconuts as an offering; when everyone baulked at the time that would require for breaking them all, a bunch of youth assured them, “Don’t you worry. We shall do it in a jiffy after lighting the camphor in just one of them.” What followed was, coconuts being broken at lightning speed, sounding more like deepavali crackers. With pieces of coconuts flying in all directions we were forced to abandon the rope and rush to a safe distance!!
Receiving kalkandu prasadam, and flowers, being caught up in the infectious mood was irresistible. Following the ThEr were a small group of people singing the sweetest hymns. Tamizh paasurams and the bhajans were sung by people not belonging not to any of the so called elite. They were ordinary village folk and their sweet music was of the highest order. But then why are people brainwashed into believing that devotional music is the preserve of the so called elite??
