Friday, 15 November 2013

Visits to Temples off the Beaten Track










 15th December 2013 Vidaiyur



 Once we get past Thiruvallur and the semi industrialised Kadambathur, we still find lands being cultivated.  There are flocks of snow-white cranes perched amidst the green fields in silent meditation.  To the eyes of a  city dweller who gets to see only statues of these birds made in cement and painted white, the live ones seem like pretty statues!! En route, we find traces of the beautiful Coovum river with pristine water!

Our destination this month was to be the village of Vidaiyur. We got to hear the temple priest’s version of the reason for the place having been named so.  Kamadhenu in the form of a cow had walked in this village, worshipping the Shiva lingam here with milk. Legend links this place with Thirupachur Sivan temple as well. It is said that Kamadhenu after her devoted prayers, was relieved of the ill effects of a curse and took leave from the world here and hence the name Vidaiyur. There is a small sculpture in the outer wall depicting a cow and a Shiva lingam.

Our van drew up before a fairly new Amman temple and on closer look, there seemed to be more than one.  The Ancient Sri Anandavalli udanaya Sri Agastheeswarar temple is a little further away.  As the temple was locked, we did a pradakshinam, and one of our members spotted a five foot cobra slithering into the undergrowth! The priest later confirmed that the temple does have a resident snake!! He also showed us some inscriptions that were not very clear and that officials from the ASI had visited the temple on more than one occasion. The temple belongs to an era in the distant past which is yet to be determined.

We had some time to bask in the sunshine and soak in the surroundings.  The mud road in front of the temple seems to be elevated and the temple is reached by tracing our steps on a slope. In front of the temple there are  remnants of a kulam with stone steps on one side; traces of stagnant water could be glimpsed between weeds and shrubs.  Maintaining temple tanks could serve dual purpose; one preserving a great heritage created with thoughts that are both noble and scientific and second, harvesting water for better environment.
  I can’t help wondering how could any other thing be of greater priority except preserving the water bodies while public money is spent for the MGNREGA!

As I stood gazing at it, a couple of small boys gamboled up there followed by a tan and white puppy who was the miniature version of his mother who came behind him.  Both did not spare even a glance for me, a stranger there! Next came an off white dog, who stopped and seemed to ask for my credentials. I had carried a small bun  and offered him a piece. As a village dog brought up on wholesome food, he sniffed at it, then looked enquiringly at me as if asking “ You call this Food !!” 

On the right side of the temple is a large field cultivated with Jasmine.

Presently, the temple doors were unlocked. We could find it renovated with the sanctum of Sri Agastheewarar being preserved in proper form, but the stone wall of the sanctum of Goddess Anandhavalli is now glazed with modern building materials!

We commenced our recital of Thevaram hymns and sung them over the next couple of hours.
A  tasty lunch cooked within the precincts of the temple was served. 

Our member Thiru Srinivasan had, in the previous week, taken great efforts to invite the residents of the village for the vazhibadu.  There were two Nandi statues in the prakaram damaged perhaps during conflicts.  If the temple could survive those and still remain standing, it was because our ancestors cared. They had created a great culture for us and if we let ourselves brainwashed that it is not worth preserving, then it will be our greatest loss.

The playful boys of the village had come,  but while it was time for us to leave, to our dismay we found our chappals thrown into the shrubs and we had quite a bit of searching to do!





17th November 2013 - Melpadi

One hundred and forty is a landmark number, and the vazhibadu on 17th November, 2013 at Melpadi in the temple of Arulmighu Thapaskruthambal udanaya Somanatheswarar was befitting such an occasion. 

 Melpadi, now small village had once been a very important place a thousand years ago in the Chola Empire.  The place where the troops of the kings were stationed was called ‘Padai Veedu’ in ancient times.  Soldiers would offer prayers at the Durga Temple referred to as ‘Padai Veettu Amman’ before meeting their foes at the battlefield.  Even now it is common to find several temples referred to as ‘Padavattamman ‘and ‘Padavettamman’ in Tamilnadu. Melpadi had once been such a place and it is from here that Rajadhitya Cholan had started for the important war at Thakkolam in 949 CE before his heroic demise after securing the interests of the Chola Empire.


Later, his brother Arinjaya Cholan had been in Melpadi when he passed away and his grandson the Great Raja Raja Cholan had built a Pallipadai Temple in his memory here.  It remains to this day in the custody of The Archeological Survey of India. 
 
Mr Suryanarayanan and Mr Ganapathy , members of our Sangam had travelled all the way on 10th November 2013 .  They had visited villagers in their homes, extending invitations to them for the vazhibadu, placed banners at strategic places and had made all the necessary arrangements at the temple for the poojai. Their efforts paid off and our event was very well attended.

The day got off to a dramatic start as if to test our commitment to the cause.  The depression off the Bay of Bengal brought about heavy rains throughout Saturday night that continued on Sunday morning as well. Some of Chennai’s roads that transform themselves into rivers during the rains, were in full spate!  We managed to assemble at Koyembedu and started our journey.  

Our Mini Bus travelled steadily in the rains on the Poonamallee High Road. One of the vehicles speeding by in the opposite direction sent water splashing inside our bus through the slightly opened window over the median! There were huge puddles on the road and our bus went through one, spraying water with spectacular effect! We halted on our way to Ranipettai, had idlis at the porch of a house on the main road, whose kind hearted owner helped us.  Eating hot idlis and sambar amidst a steady drizzle outside made them tastier!

After a three hour journey we reached Melpadi. Beyond a waterway, the road that is lined with Banyan and other big trees leads us to the temple.  By then the rains had stopped and the sun had deigned to put in an appearance.  The temple has a beautiful façade, with high walls and an approach that could be associated with the Grand Cholas. The courtyard inside is vast, and it presented a beautiful sight, that rain and sun drenched forenoon. 

Many residents of the village had come and several important personalities relating to the place had graced the occasion. Among them were Thiru Picchandi Councilor, Thiru S Subramani Councilor, Thiru S Chandrasekaran Ex MLA, Mr Panneerselvam, and Officials of the Forest Department and the Archeological Survey.

The vazhibadu was done with Abishekam, Archanai, recitals from the thirumurais, and with the temple priest chanting excerpts from Rudram , Chamakam and the Vedas. On the auspicious day of Karthigai, for the first time, we included the recital of Thirupugazh under the guidance of our senior member Thiru Thyagaganesan..
 The Sangam honored the persons involved in the maintenance of the temple. Thiru S Velayudhan, teacher, and a resident of the place had composed a Kavithai on our Sangam which he read out to us. It has been scanned for the benefit of our members.

We renewed the Sangam vows and lunch was served to the residents of the village and the members, with a dish prepared with Thinai included in the menu.

We hurried back for lighting the Karthigai Deepam. We had a good three hour journey before us, but we left with a sense of contentment of a Mission well Accomplished!




20th October 2013  -  Aangadu

The day was blessed with a wonderful weather; mild, cloudy and interspersed with light showers.  It was a perfect setting for the event planned for the day.

We travelled past the Puzhal lake, and took a right turn off the National Highway.  The sight of acres of land with grown casuarina trees was pleasing to the eye. Once past the vast stretches of land, there were quite a few houses and Aangadu did not seem like a tiny remote village! We still needed directions to reach the temple and paused to enquire a father, son duo.  While the father seemed nonplussed, his son with a toy gun in his hand pointed at the right direction to a very small Perumal Koil!!

The van took a narrow road that soon brought us to a huge lotus pond.  The sight of so many lotus flowers in bloom with a couple of lilies thrown in, was so refreshing. On its bank stood a huge Neem tree,with its branches spread out to provide a canopy.  The villagers had draped a red cloth around its trunk and beneath, was a small place of worship with a few stones, generously smeared with turmeric and Kunkumam.
Down the bend, we could see a small temple. Retaining only the original stone ceiling and the semi circular Gaja Brushtam Constuction style of the Thondaimandalam temples, the temple had been thoroughly renovated with bricks and cement and painted in cream and brown colours.

While we appreciate the efforts taken by the villagers to save the temple from crumbling down, it is also heart rending to see that they fail to realize that in their over enthusiasm, the antiquity of the temples getting destroyed. Restoration done, using modern materials, discarding the original stones, alters the ambience of the temples.  

But the Sanctum and the Shivalingam of Sri Indireswarar retained a certain grandeur.  The idols of Goddess Senambika, Kalabairavar and the Nagar were handcrafted and beautiful.  Oddly, we found  a  small Nandi placed before the Goddess in this temple.
The Vazhipadu commenced and sizeable number of villagers with their children took part in it.  Towards noon, there was a slight drizzle and it was noticed that there were people standing even outside the tent put up!

Apart from the temple priest, there was another person engaged in various tasks with obvious love for the God and the temple.After the abishegam, the Priest of the temple, spoke about the value of the Panchakshara  Manthra and took out a ganjira and conducted a mini bhajanai .    An elderly gentleman of the village spoke about the temple and we renewed the Sangam vows for the preservation of Ancient Temples and Ancient Tamil Hymns along with the villagers.

A farmer of the village conversationally mentioned that they had been making a conscious effort to do organic farming in the village, which the vast green fields around seemed to testify. 


We took leave of the place with the thought that the temple here, is well cared for. 



15th September 2013  - Karivedu

It was sweet Nadhaswaram music that greeted us as we got down from our van after our travel from Chennai for two hours to Karivedu village near Kanchipuram.  With great humility we accepted the gracious welcome, accorded to us by the villagers and walked to the temple following the melodic notes of the Nadhaswaram and the perfect rhythm of the Thavil.   But the temple seemed almost abandoned and there was not even a mud path to walk on.  It was through grass, thorns and slush that we reached the temple of Sri Dharmavardhini udanaya Sri Haripradheeswarar.

On entering the temple, we paused to take stock of our surroundings.  The temple seemed untouched by modernity but for the electrical wiring and also seemed so much ravaged by the passage of time.
On doing a pradakshinam before the vazhibadu, we were greeted by very beautiful Ganapathy and Dakshinamurthy.The high standards of the temple’s construction was so apparent in its perfectly carved alcoves with intricate designs, for housing the Goshta Deivangal and in the divine beauty of the idols. We were taken aback to find the stone slabs missing on the floor.  All that now remains is a mud floor with numerous ant and wasp hives. We then reached the Murugar sannadhi and were sad to see that the idols of both Murugar and Valli ,had been uprooted and taken away with the idol of Deivanai standing alone.
Sans electricity, it was dark and pretty scary to venture further.  The Amman sannadhi was shrouded in darkness with the agalvilakkus we had lighted, being too feeble to illuminate it. And there were hordes of bats flying out from the Sanctum Sanctorum.  The beautiful idol of Dharmavardhini stood alone in the darkness with the smell of bats permeating the place, seeming to wait for us mortals to come to our senses and do our bit, to preserve our heritage.

We later came to know that some of the Urchava Vigrahams had been robbed a couple of decades ago and the rest have been kept in safe custody at Thirumalpur.   There was a nook at the Mahamandapam to which the archagar kept going with the flowers and lamp.  We were amazed to learn that the nook is actually a small spring which used to have water. It also houses a neat Shivalingam which can be reached climbing down a couple of small steps.  The spring now has water only when there is water in Palar.  But in ancient times, it was from here, that water was drawn for the abishekam of the Moolavar.

Our group did the vazhibadu, performing abishegam , singing ,  reciting various hymns from Thevaram and Thiruvasagam.  The villagers participated with gusto particularly an elderly gentleman who was not even familiar with the Panns being sung.  I could hear a small village girl sitting next to me holding a perfect tune and clearly chanting the seventh century tamil verses. 

The temple came alive with music that day and we pray that it remains so.



18th August 2013  - Pullalur

The villages around Kanchipuram always hold our fascination.  These must have once been the outskirts of a big city even in the 7th century! Noble kings, enlightened Spiritual Masters and brilliant teachers who had set up university in ancient times, had lived in here.  We at PTTS, are trying to retrace our steps, making efforts to seek out these ancient places of worship, so that they are not lost forever.

After the liberal rains we had received the previous night on 17th August 2013, the Chennai – Bangalore highway, had small streams of water running along the main road at several places.  We took a left turn and were soon in Thirumalpur; we might wonder at the North Indian style name for the place.
There is a temple here where Vishnu is said to have prayed to Shivan and had been blessed. The chaste Tamizh name Thirumalperu had somehow become a North Indian sounding Thirumalpur! The place has a tiny Railway station that seemed clean, a rarity these days!

We went further to reach Pullalur. The village had been the venue for many significant wars in the past. In the 7th century, the armies of Mahendravarma Pallavan and Chalukya king Pulikesi had clashed here when the Pallavas had suffered a defeat. After a few years, the armies had clashed again and the Chalukyas had been vanquished. These have been immortalized by Kalki in his novel Sivagamiyin Sabadham.

After a thousand years, Tipu Sultan had fought the British in the outskirts of this village and had emerged victorious. After some years, there had again been a war fought between the British and the French!
But now, the green fields show no sign of the bloody conflicts and everything looks so peaceful.  According to the young temple priest, whose family has been performing the poojas for six generations, the tendency of this place to attract conflicts had begun much earlier. Jatayu had been hurt in the vicinity of the village and the name of the village had been derived from the word ‘Pulll’ meaning bird in Tamizh. There is a Divyadesam called ‘ Thiruputkuzhi’ close by, where Rama is believed to have performed Jatayu’s last rites.  It seems to vouch Pullalur’s claim.

The temple itself is not very big, but it has a perfect square vimanam so beautiful that we may not get tired looking at it. While we do a Pradikshinam, we are surprised that the entire backyard and one side of the temple being cultivated! Yes! Ploughed and planted with numerous vegetables such as pumpkins, cluster beans and thandu keerai!  The villagers had been taking away the rich soil for their own use until an ex policeman had stepped in to stop it.

According to the Shastras, selecting land for the purpose of building a temple, involved several steps of which testing the soil for its properties is one. The soil needs to be fertile and have good taste, and a small amount of soil had even been eaten; seeds of the navadhanyams sown to see if the soil supports and nurtures life.

It is apparent that the Pullalur temple is built on a land selected for its perfection. Arulmighu Sri Kamakshi Amman udanaya Sri Kailasanathar resides here presiding over his very green estate.


21st July 2013  - Aanoor

The Grand Southern Trunk Road that seems to have lost some of its grandeur lives up to its name once we get past the hustle of the city. After the Mahindra City, we pass by a lake, a railway station, hills and a toll booth to reach Chengalpattu. It is a very small, quaint and beautiful town. We went through the town past the District Court finding numerous churches en route.

Unlike Chennai and its surroundings, the Chengalpattu area has hills and cactus dotting its landscape.  Once we get past these, nature unfurls greenery in the form of trees, vegetable and paddy fields! The road to Anoor village is wide enough for only one vehicle to travel.  I later found that in Chola times, the village had a centre for learning with Government Grants.

We stopped at the temple. It’s obvious state of disrepair did not worry me as much as the newly renovated, garishly painted ones do. So there is still hope of salvaging it without destroying its originality. It is a worrying trend that our historical, ancient temples are at the mercy of people with little or no sense of history and spiritual knowledge.

The temple’s compound encloses a grassy prakaram and the wall itself has niches at both sides of the entrance without the idols in them. I wonder if they once had Chandra and Surya idols or Vinayakar or Murugar. I have to confess that I was a little wary of thorns, walking barefoot in the very grassy prakaram.  There was not even a single thorn but the feel of only fresh grass all the way and I even felt guilty about walking on them.

There was a very strange image of Vinayakar quite unlike what we normally see, carved at the southern side of the temple.  There is a sannadhi at the south west, without the idol. On the northern side, there was again an empty niche.  We later found the Kalabairavar statue inside the temple.  It has been carved so beautifully that the local people have decided, to place it inside the temple to safeguard it from getting stolen. The temple itself has stone inscriptions strangely running at the base of the structure almost at the floor.

The vazhibadu was done with fervor and PTTS honoured people who are presently involved in the maintenance of the temple. A person for whom Anoor is his ancestral village informed us that there is a similar ancient Vishnu temple that badly needs renovation in the village. We were then invited to the newly renovated Murugar temple.

After the lunch we had with everyone present, we started over to the Murugar temple.  We had apparently taken the wrong direction, and the very narrow road that stretched endlessly gave no scope for reversing directions! After a few kilometers, we decided to bite the bullet. The driver did some very difficult maneuvering and all of us had a few thrilling moments before we turned and headed to the Murugar kovil.  Obviously lot of money had been spent, but sadly without retaining even a trace of the temple’s originality.

Our vazhibadu that day was reported in the local edition of Dinamalar and we later came to know that a wealthy sponsor had come forward to renovate the temple. Aren't we always glad to find our prayers answered!!

16th June 2013  - Kalathur

There are several villages bearing the name of Kalathur in Tamilnadu. We are uncertain if they mean the Agricultural field or the Battlefield here.  I assume the Kalthur that we visited on 16th June 2013, off the Bangalore highway past Kanchipuram would have referred to the agricultural fields. 

                As our van drew close to the temple, we could hear the record of Bhaja Govindam sung by M S Subbulakshmi being played.  A nice choice of song to listen to, as we had to stay outside the temple for quite a while.  In their enthusiasm to get the temple cleaned ahead of our visit, the people who maintain the temple had liberally poured water and the floors were soaking wet!  Some of us seated ourselves on the front mandapam that ran like a Thinnai.  A small girl drew kolams with sure strokes on the floor and at the steps that drew appreciation from our women members.

We understand that it had been over five decades since the last kumbabhishekam had been performed at the temple.  Out office bearers had earlier visited the temple and had captured its ancient locks in their camera.
The front yard of the temple has a small Nandi Mandapam.  There are two more dilapidated brick and stone structures and another mandapam that is locked.  Enquiries reveal that the structure at the far right in front of the temple was once the madapalli.  On the left, the locked mandapam houses the vahanams of several temples in the area kept here for safe custody.  The other brick façade had once been the yagasalai.  As it was possible to enter only the dilapidated madapalli, I ventured in to get a feel of the place. Past the veranda like structure, there was no roof. To the right was a place with a stone slab placed like a kitchen counter where I imagined cooked food had once been placed, before being taken into the temple for neivedhyam!

                Since it could take forever for the water to dry on the temple floors, unmindful of the wetness, we sat down and started the vazhipadu. Due to the fact that the temple has too few devotees visiting it, its resources are limited and the idols in the temple needed what we refer to as ‘Ennai Kaappu’.

 During the next three hours, as we were singing the Thevaram songs, we found that Kalathur has many promising children with devout parents.  Some of these children had already been taught these verses and they sang them with ease.  There was another young girl, with her kolusu tinkling, flitting about here and there, fetching several pots of water for the abishekams, applying oil on the prakara murthies, applying Sandal paste and generally assisting her archakar father. 

The presence that the Moolavar has, cannot be described by mere words and it needs to be experienced by everyone. So is the Urchavar, with a majestic presence. 

The parents who had taught Thevarams to their children had honest devotion stamped on their faces. They invited us over to another temple close by. This temple bore stone inscriptions.  These people had on their own initiative, started poojas in this ancient forgotten temple and it has now become a regular place of worship.

The father insisted that we all stand together and did a namaskaram with his family and asked that we bless them.  The native culture of this soil was so apparent in every gesture of his.  We great feeling, we sought God’s Grace that they remain with health, wealth and happiness.  It is people like them who form the bedrock of our culture and they should be protected. 


19th May 2013  - Kuranganilmuttam

KuranganilMuttam is a Padal Petra Sthalam near Kanchipuram a little off the beaten track. It derives its rather peculiar name from an event when a monkey, a squirrel and a crow performed Siva Pujai  here. The temple structure itself dates back to the days of the Pallavas.

Kathri Veyyil was in full swing even early in the morning when we were on our way.  An elderly gentleman had given a Thevaram CD to be played in the van and we got off to a musical start.  But after a while, a few others wanted some quiet and got it switched off!  While some of us did not agree with the decision, we murmured among ourselves and settled to watch the scenery by the window.

Presently we entered Kanchipuram and soon the name “Senkazhuneer Odai Veedhi “caught my eye. Though the street is now a busy thoroughfare with no odai in sight, I loved the name and my mind conjured up beautiful images!

The van stopped near the Flower Bazaar and as minutes trickled away, the van was getting hotter with every passing second. Our experience that day taught us a valuable lesson that in Kanchipuram, we can hope to buy Flowers only there and it is no use looking for them in Nellukara Veedhi or Raja Veedhi.

 Despite orders not to wander away, one group was looking to buy some idli vadais, another was in search of flowers, another for turmeric, one more for nongu , bangles and what not !! After some frayed tempers, the van drove out of Kanchipuram. We passed by Doosi, a town where once the troops of the kings had been stationed in ancient times.  The troops had raised a lot of dust literally and hence the name for the town. Our forefathers certainly had a sense of humour!

The temple itself is not very big and does not even have a Rajagopuram.  Its unique feature is, being surrounded by a beautiful Thamaraikulam on all the three sides! To the temple’s left, there are a flight of steps that lead us to the pond. The kulam had thankfully not gone completely dry even in mid May and sported a good number of flowers! I stood there soaking in the peace and serenity of the place despite the heat of the sun beating down on me.

We did the parayanam with the senior member leading us with a special recital of the Pathigam sung on the deity of KuranganilMuttam. After the vazhibadu and the Arthi, we assembled in the Artha Mandapam to renew the Sangam vows. I happened to find myself next to a Pillar that was done in simple Pallava design. I ran my hand over it , felt its pockmarked surface and was grateful for the moment.

All the idols in the prakaram were beautiful; particularly the idol of Vishnu who stood much taller than the other idols of Vishnu we would normally find in the Shivan temples; his expression so majestic and endearing, lingers in my memory.


21st April 2013  - Edamani

A google search of Pazhaverkadu region throws some amazing facts; it is a natural port that had engaged in trade with other countries in ancient times; the place had once been a prized possession of our ancient Tamil kingdoms and they had vied to get control of it.  The kingdoms grew prosperous with the customs and port related taxes.  It appears, cloth had been produced here for local use and export, and also Pazhaverkadu is reported to have been mentioned by Ptolemy in the 3rd century before the Common Era!

During the 9th century, a group of Arabs who had to flee their country had sought refuge here and had got it.
After the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire, the place had fallen in the hands of the Dutch who seemed to have engaged in some slave trading, and then the Portuguese, French and the British.   The area had seen lot conflicts and destruction as some of these European Powers had tried to destroy the native faith and enforce theirs.

From Koyembedu on the Kolkatta Highway, En route to Edamani village, we passed by Ponneri, Thiruppalaivanam where the temple of Thiruppalaivananthar is situated, and Andarkuppam where the BalasubramaniaSwamy temple is situated.  At a place called Medhur, I could see a dilapidated Sivan Kovil with a kulam.

The horizon then expanded to open spaces and blue skies.  The landscape and the air seemed to announce that we were approaching the sea.

The van stopped at the temple of Sri Angala Parameshwari udanaya Sri Jataraya Iswarar kovil. Its appearance seemed to suggest recent construction that had been painted in all hues. The kulam next to it, almost in ruin, with old stone steps seemed to be the only evidence of the antiquity of the place. There was a huge complex of trees behind the temple; a gigantic Arasa Maram and a Pulia Maram.  The diameter of their huge trunks announce that they are centuries old.

After the vazibadu, the young archakar of the temple came out with the following astonishing facts in response to pointed queries raised by the office bearers:

1.        The Deity Jataraya Iswarar, had originally been in Karimanal village near Sriharikota.  When the Space Station had come up in Sriharikota, the temple had to be given up.

2.       The current spot had once been the temple of Edamaneeswarar whose temple had ceased to exist. (Possibly razed or dilapidated)

3.       Angala Parameswari had been the deity all these years to whom people had been praying and sacrificing goats.

4.       After the prathishtai of Jataraya Iswarar, now people offer the price of a goat in the hundi instead of performing a sacrifice of the goat.

5.       Apart from the small lingam at the sanctum, there is a huge Panai lingam from the rare Panai tree with several branches in Karimanal. This tree, still at Karimanal can be visited only with a special permission from the VSSC Authorities.

6.       Framed black and white photographs of the original, small Karimanal temple adorn the walls of the new Edamani temple.

We leave wondering if the huge tree at the back yard was the sthala vriksham of the original Edamaneeswarar temple and about a slice of history that is now only hazy to us!


17th March 2013  - Melaiyur

After signing up as a new member of PTTS at the spiritual fair,  I,  along with several other members embarked on a journey which with some hindsight, proved to be a journey that was not only to the Arulmighu Sri Periyanayaki udanaya Sri Nadhaparaneeswarar temple in Melaiyur village near Guduvancheri.   This and the subsequent trips to do vazhibadu at the ancient temples in villages that are small and remote in the present era, served as an eye opener on the present state of our priceless temple structures, how we hindus as inheritors of a great heritage, are so unaware of its value.

We travelled along the GST road past Guduvancheri , Nandivaram and reached the temple which was under a process of renovation.  Although summer was officially yet to begin on 17th March 2013, it was quite hot and the buttermilk served to us by the organizers tasted like ambrosia. Each of us was given a book to do the parayanam which has been compiled with great care, by including all the significant hymns of the four great Nayanmars.

The temple had a fairly large Mahamandapam and over a couple of hours, we rendered the Thevaram hymns with the guidance of a senior member of our group.  The sound of our collective voices ricocheting off the old stone walls gave a curious sense of satisfaction.  Abishekam was performed at all the sannadhis and it was time for the Arathi.  A resident of the village tried switching on a contraption, which simultaneously tries to play the drum, cymbal and ring the bell too! I was thankful that it did not work and another villager took hold of the temple bell’s rope and pulled at it energetically.  The moolavar vigraham was so beautifully decorated and the moment was so intense. I felt all that we need to do is to reawaken the divine energies that our forefathers had established everywhere!   I, with all the other members of the PTTS chanted with all the energy I could muster.

Going around the temple, on the right side, found a sannadhi of a very beautiful Perumal, and behind the temples, a beautiful pond full of water. But more on these later.

PTTS then honoured the villagers who serve the temple and the Archakar spoke on how the deity in the temple bestows boons of marriage and parenthood on devotees who offer prayers here.

Later he had amazing events to share.  It appears that a resident of the village had, after lots of efforts, started the Thiruppani.  They had cleaned the well from where the idols of the Goshta Deivangal have emerged.  On cleaning the pond, the tall beautiful idol of Perumal had been found. When the floor of the temple was dug to be re-laid, the tool had struck something metallic and urchava vigrahams buried long ago had been discovered. During an invasion, all these precautions had been taken by our forefathers and it seems significant that the Gods have chosen to come out now!!

 To the delight of several women members of the group there were Pirandai plants growing profusely around the pond which they collected as we took leave in a happy mood!








































Wednesday, 23 October 2013

Reporting on Crimes against women

On hearing about the gruesome crimes that are perpetrated on women, the whole community no doubt stands by the victim’s family at their hour of crisis and the media does substantial reporting on them.  The antecedents of the victim, her trauma, her family background, the anguish undergone by her family are all covered in detail.  Sometimes after a period of time, the media revisits them to review how the family has coped with the crises.

This might in a certain way, help the victim’s family to know that the community stands by them and empathizes with them.  But many a time they might wish that the spotlight turns away from them, so that they can grieve in private.  Also it does entirely spare the family of the persons who commit these crimes.
Often it is the family which shapes the attitudes of a person towards women.  Several boys are brought up with poor parenting.

While the society thinks of various deterrent punishments, it needs to be considered that any action by the community would be more effective than any other punishment awarded legally.

The anonymity enjoyed by the criminal’s family only helps breeding of wrong attitudes. The media focus should turn to the family of the perpetrator who really are responsible for unleashing a criminal on the society.   This would help parents of boys be more guarded, to take more care on their son’s attitudes and activities.


In a world where there may not be a support system for the women to fall back on in future, it is vital that we ensure that parents of boys understand their responsibilities or face the consequences. It would also make the criminals think twice before they engage themselves in crimes against women. To spare their feelings would no doubt only encourage them.

Pilgrimage

A Pilgrimage used to be a journey for seeking something for the soul.  It had a sanctity attached to it and would be undertaken only when certain conditions were satisfied.

The intention or desire to embark on  such an expedition,  yes, an expedition as journeys undertaken even 75 years ago were not mere trips  that could come  on a mere whim!   With very limited facilities for transport, any journey would have been quite arduous.

                In India until recent times, selling cooked food was considered against Dharma.  There were houses built for the travelers to rest in all the Pilgrim centers and routes.  These rest houses were called Chathrams  and building them was considered a noble deed.

So, without the assurance of Reserved Accommodation and such creature comforts, or even food, long distances had to be covered on foot with numerous lakes and water bodies for water, trees on the roads for company.    But even journeys undertaken in groups had to contend with robbers and murderers.  So there was very little option for individuals or very small groups attempting a pilgrimage on their own.

Shastras had imposed elaborate purification standards for the pilgrimages. Therefore, the whole experience of preparing for a holy trip,  travelling on foot with only God in mind, performing charitable acts en route,  singing bhajans and listening to scriptures , meeting different people , passing through different places, a pilgrimage was meant to be  a journey of discovery , including self discovery culminating in the darshan of the deity. 

Such devotees who come to the temples,after a physically challenging journey and with a mind conditioned to higher consciousness would have added  to the sanctity of the place.  True there would have been exceptions, but this was the general scenario.

Now having given up on everything else, people think it is only the darshan that matters and bribe their way to the sanctum. I try to picture a pilgrimage to Rameswaram  as done in the olden days even a century ago, when India’s population was only 25 percent of what it is now, the place would have been far less crowded and certainly less dirty. A pilgrim, after weeks if not months of travel, and with a mind attuned to make a fresh start after absolving all sins, would have found the ritual bath in the Sethu sea and the 27 theerthams  truly meaningful and cleansing.   With a sense of having been reborn, he or she would have walked to the Sannidhi praying to Sri Ramanathaswamy for a more fruitful life.

From Kashi to Rameswaram, Tirupathy, Palani, Srirangam, Madurai and numerous other Kshethrams all over India have become sacred due to these Pilgrims over the centuries.  Their thoughts, conduct and prayers have added to their holiness.

Contrast this with the scenario as seen on a typical day today.  People come in hordes, in trains, buses, cars, vans and every other conceivable mode of transport.   Not all of them with God in their minds.   Many of them watch movies on their way, play all kinds of songs  at a deafening tone.   Throw garbage, dirty the place and do everything to pollute the pilgrim centre. No devotee who considers a place sacred would dirty it.  But people do it all the time these days without a second thought.

The rituals are observed without any meaning, without time to apply conscious thought, with one person having to make way for the next person waiting.  The priests now have a reputation of swindling gullible people conducting rituals en masse.

Is it any surprise that tickets are issued for Darshan , bribes are given and taken for special Darshans and Prasadhams?  There need not be any doubts that purity of thought and action are mandatory for anything to be Holy.

The need of the hour is not to develop more pilgrim centers into holiday destinations.  The awareness that Darshan alone is not the purpose of a pilgrimage needs to be emphasized.  This should help reduce corruption in our temples.  It would also help people approach temples with more reverence more peace, and bring about cleanliness and sanctity.
















The Green Mushroom

I have nicknamed the banana tree that is just outside my window, ‘The Green Mushroom’.  For someone who found solace in nature and greenery, life in a Chennai flat with barely a couple of meters between the houses on all sides,  does feel a little dreary.    The coriander tree, the banana tree’s   predecessor, came as a pleasant surprise.  It had grown to reach my balcony in the first floor, its foliage forming a green curtain so the neighbour’s window did not feel like an intruder.  One day, it was a rude shock to see it chopped by the neighbour, in whose compound it had grown.  The neighbours had taken in their head to cut the the other foliage that were further away; Jasmine creepers, the growing mango tree, and the drumstick tree which would have been the original sinner inviting the kambili poochi worms;  all gone in a day!
I had reconciled myself to the reality that I might not see or feel greenery there for quite some time. While mourning their loss as I lay that night,  by the  window which opened to the balcony, I was amazed to see that the window now opened to a view farther away.  Through the gap between the two houses in the back row, I could see the horizon at a distance. I started thoroughly enjoying the luxury of seeing the branches of a tree from afar while going to sleep and waking up in the morning!  I philosophized that it is so true that nature has a different experience waiting for us with every move; I only need an open mind to look for it and enjoy it!!
 Seasons changed and days passed by. One fine day, I saw something green peeping its head.  I rushed to find a banana tree growing waving its leafy arms at me! The tree every time produced its long leaf like a bamboo stick and unfolded it slowly blocking the view I had come to enjoy.  I can’t say I resented that, but the tree soon became a clump of trees and had grown so many leaves in what seemed like a jiffy! It was then I decided to call it ‘The Green Mushroom’. I began watching its progress with great interest.  I found a squirrel walking up as close as I would see them in a cartoon; right down to his expression!  He took a close look at me and decided that he would rather scurry down!!
Having taken up quite a bit of space on the right side, the tree had decided spread its leaves to the other side.  While I opened my window in the hall, I found something brushing against it.  I could see the Green Mushroom wanted some of my window space as well!!  Every time I open and closed the window, I had to carefully move the leaf away so that it does not get crushed.  But, I was helpless about it staying close to the window glass that heats up in the afternoons. I could see that some parts of it was getting singed in the heat. I again had to philosophize, a tree is helpless as it is immobile.  But with all the mobility, we humans are often immobile in the wrong situations, not trying hard enough to get away!
It one day produced another green tube like structure, which I assumed would be another leaf.   To my amazement, it was the beginning of a ‘Thaar’ !  The process is so similar to that of a coconut tree producing coconuts.   A Vazhaipoo that easily could be thrice the size of the vazhaipoo that we could find in the vegetable market appeared.  Just like a Thennampalai, each petal of the flower reveals a row of tiny potential vazhaipazhams.  The tree is painstakingly adding to its size with every passing day.  I know the neighbour would one day cut the tree, but watching its efforts over a period of time, I know I shall remember the effort another similar tree had taken, every time I eat a banana and be thankful for it.


Monday, 2 September 2013

Girl Child

            Fewer Girls in future?


In many states, the girl child has become an endangered species and many supportive catchphrases are coined to stop people destroying the girl child before she has a chance to be born.  To understand the reasons for the girl child being less preferred, there are a plethora of causes to be examined.  We would be trivializing the matter if the whole thing is explained away as a dowry problem and suggesting economic liberation as an antidote.  Economic independence is undoubtedly a good solution for a woman to lead a life of dignity but that alone would not suffice for people to volunteer to be parents of daughters.

Let us examine what it means to be a parent of a girl child now without even considering the dowry problem. Parents who have only daughters are looked at with sympathy by the society. And what could the reasons be? The moment a son is born, parents start seeing him as a provider and protector and in other words, as an investment and a daughter as a liability to be discharged.

When we give the matter some thought, we become more alert and attentive as to how other children in the neighborhood are brought up.  Even in a purely middle class scenario where the outlook is expected to be liberal, it is obvious that boys are brought up to think of themselves as a different species.  If pranks of the boys are outrageous, it is to be expected, but girl child is expected to be gentle and meek.  As the children grow up, many parents and grandparents of boys who go about hitting and kicking others, see the child as someone who is smart enough to see himself through the world!

With every passing day, with stories of child abuse getting more numerous, the parents of the girl find themselves thinking of their daughter’s safety on the way to school and back. Matters have come to the state that their safety at the schools themselves have become doubtful in some cases.  When the children are sent to other classes for extra curricular activities the burden falls on the parents again.  They have to double check the credentials of the coaches and be ever watchful and vigilant.  Later as teenagers, girls compete with the boys academically but take more risks again when they commute to their coaching classes.   They have to face many scary situations which are summed up in a very mild term as “Eve Teasing”.  The Parents of teenage boys can relax and condone the activities of their children as “boys are boys” and that it must be the fault of the girl who by her conduct or dress provokes such behaviour.

The responsibility of the girls’ parents does not stop with getting them educated. The Ideal Woman forty years ago was one who was reasonably educated, and who could cook well. These days situation demands that the girls are professionally qualified and well employed. The parents must also see that the girls get adequate exposure to cooking, administration of the house, and acquaint them with the customs of the family.    Now their cooking skills have to encompass not only South Indian Cooking but several other styles as well. The girls have to be fair skinned and beautiful. She has to be career minded but ‘home loving’.  She has to be ‘professionally qualified’ but ‘domestically well trained’.  When the daughters acquire these qualities, they develop a sense of self worth and expect someone in the mould of a friend or a partner when it comes to marriage.  But how many boys are being sensitized to these expectations?

  The parents then will have to worry about the safety of their daughters in the workplace and on the roads.  In addition to that they will have to skimp and save for the jewellery and marriage expenses all their lives. Having lavished so much care in bringing up the child, they have to prepare themselves to discharge the dreaded marriage responsibility.  The task of ensuring that the groom is upright and honest has become very tough in a world that has become increasingly impersonal and aloof.

Four or Five decades ago the girl’s parents could celebrate a marriage at their residence with much less money.   Today the desire from the groom’s side for what they call a decent wedding results in lakhs of Rupees being spent by the bride’s family. Compared to what is spent these days on the venue, food and miscellaneous items, the burden of the father of the bride forty years ago with all the dowry seem quite less.  Forty years ago an education up to school final was adequate and a graduation was considered very good.  Now with all the education that the father has to provide, and with the marriage expenses spiralling,   parents of a girl need very deep pockets indeed.

And then there are the customs to be followed post marriage.  Every occasion is to be celebrated with sweets and presents from the bride’s family.  Innumerable sarees dhotis and sweetmeats have to be purchased.  I have deliberately not mentioned gold.   In an era when the joint family of the boy took care of all the expenses of the child, it made sense for the girl’s family to provide some gifts when a child is born.  But these days the parents of the boys have no responsibilities but the parents of the girls have to gear themselves up for making adequate presents for their grandchildren.  When the daughter is a working woman, the responsibility of taking care of the grandchildren also fall on them as in many cases the young mother is not willing to entrust her child to her in laws.

The parents of a boy can claim the right of moving in with the son  but  the parents of a daughter cannot do that.  They will have to provide themselves for their old age and any small care given is gratefully accepted and not taken for granted.

All this, when everything goes well. No wonder there are fewer people willing to have daughters.